Applique Tutorial
June 23, 2010
I’ve had several requests for a tutorial on how I do my appliques. There is no right or wrong way to applique, this is simply how I do it. Also, this is going to be a long post. I don’t like when tutorials are split into several posts as it’s hard to go back to previous steps. This will be all in one place, but quite lengthy! Be warned!
More information on how to applique curves.
Materials you’ll need:
-item to applique (I’m using a shirt)
-fabric for applique
-fusible web
-thread
-if you don’t have a Mac, or the ability to horizontally flip an image, you’ll need a flat, transparent surface with a light source on the other side (such as a light box, or a window during the day)
I want to talk briefly about fusible web. I prefer to use Heat n Bond Lite. There are several brands available on the market (Wonder Under, Stitch Witchery, etc) but I like HnB. There are 2 types of Heat n Bond. The regular Heat n Bond is not meant for machine stitching. You want Heat n Bond Lite. It comes 2 ways–prepackaged or on a bolt. I’ve used both and can tell you from my experience, the stuff off the bolt doesn’t work very well. I prefer to buy a prepackaged roll. It comes in purple packaging. The regular (no sew) is in red. HnB has 2 sides, a paper side, and a slick, shiny side.
First you need to select something to applique. For the example, I’m making a Minnie Mouse birthday shirt for a sweet little soon-to-be 3 year old. Her Mom asked me for a Minnie head silhouette with a bow and a 3 in the middle to match her party decorations. She also wanted her name on the back.
So to begin, I found a good Mickey silhouette on my computer by Googling. You want to find the cleanest, most basic shape for your applique. The best way to find one is by searching Google images with keywords like template, clip art, outline, etc. So I searched “Mickey outline” and was able to find this one. I trace my images directly from my laptop screen. If you do this, be careful not to press hard! Make sure you’re tracing on the paper side of the HnB, not the shiny side.
If your image is directional (like words) you’ll need to flip it so it’s backwards on the paper. This is because the paper will come off and is the side that adheres the applique design to your project. If you cannot reverse images on your computer, simply trace it (or print it at the desired size), turn the paper over, and trace on the fusible web using a light box or other source of light.
Trace all your images separately on your fusible web. Once you’re finished it should look something like this.
Cut the pieces apart according to your fabric. Using no steam, iron them on the WRONG side of the pressed fabric.
Cut each part out individually now.
I eyeball the placement of the design on the front of the shirt. No one is going to come up with a ruler and say, “Oh that’s 1/2 an inch closer to the left seam than the right!” But they might look at it and say, “Hmmm that Mickey looks a little off-center.” That’s my theory, anyway!
I like to lay my design together at this stage and make sure all the pieces work. When I’m making something for someone else I snap a picture and send it to them for approval. For this shirt, I learned the birthday girl loves green and was able to change the color of the “3″ before I started sewing.
The most important part of appliqueing with many pieces is doing them in the right order. Start with the bottom-most of all the pieces, remove the fusible web paper, and iron it down.
There aren’t many pieces in this shirt, so here’s an example of many pieces and the order in which they were sewn.
In this case, I started with the silhouette.
When sewing on knit, like shirts, I learned through experience that you want to line your stitches up with the outside of the image.
The length and width of your stitches is totally a personal preference. My stitches are about 1/16″ wide and 1/16″ long. Which means there are approximately 16 stitches per inch.
Sew around the perimeter of your design, back to where you started. Don’t back stitch when you begin or when you end, just pull your threads and clip. To finish the seam, I pull my threads to the back of the shirt. You can do this by threading a needle and pulling them through, or you can follow my unconventional method.
Pull on your bobbin thread and your top thread will start to pull through.
I use the back side of my seam ripper to catch the thread and pull it through. Pull both top threads through that way, then tie them together several times.
Clip your ends.
Iron your project between each layer of applique. Move on to the next image you want to stitch. I did the bow next.
There are plenty of techniques to stitching and it took me awhile to decide how I wanted to consistently do things. Whenever I come to a corner, I sew to the end, leave my needle in the project, and turn the entire thing 90 degrees. I sew over my last stitch or two, but it keeps it neat and orderly.
When sewing curves, I found it’s best to keep the image straight in your presser foot to avoid slanted stitches. You do this by raising the foot, with the needle in the down position, and making small adjustments as you sew along.
Notice how the edge of the bow stays perfectly lined up with the notched edge in my foot? That keeps the stitches straight.
Keep lifting and turning as you sew around the curves.
Since I don’t back stitch at all, I like to hold my threads as I remove the project from the machine to keep the stitches from pulling.
Iron again and repeat with all layers.
To add a name to the back, I cut out all the pieces, remove the paper all at once, and line them up on a ruler. I do measure these to make sure they’re the same distance from the edge of the shirt, and that the line is straight. I find myself limited by the number of letters I can fit on the back. 8 is usually the max I like to do to keep it looking clean. The shorter the name the larger you can make the font, too.
Iron them all on at the same time. But don’t rub the iron back and forth, pick it up and place it each time. Take it from me and my experience!
Stitch and finish the letters in the same manner you did the images on the front and voila! You’re done!
Posted in 
June 27th, 2010 at 7:01 PM
Melissa, this is great! I too enjoy applique but yours is so professional looking, I am so glad to get some of your tips! Particularly where to place the stitches in relation to the fabric for t-shirts – I have always used stabilizer on the back of the shirt but your way means one less step, which is always good. One question – what font do you use for your letters?
June 27th, 2010 at 9:10 PM
Thanks Robyn! This particular font is called Cheri and I downloaded it from a free font website (I can try to figure out the specific one I used if you can’t find it). I’ve also used Marker Felt for applique in the past. For my numbers I use Arial Bold.
So we missed this month’s Friday night hangout at Whipstitch. Maybe we’ll shoot for July?
June 27th, 2010 at 9:51 PM
thanks Melissa, I will try to find Cheri! I am definitely up for a Friday night at Whipstitch in July. I wonder if they do it every Friday night or just certain dates? I was in there on Saturday for their 40% sale, I love that place. I spent way more money than I intended and now have lots of projects to do!
June 29th, 2010 at 1:01 AM
I’m going to forward this post to my friend. She was just mentioning the other day about how she wants to learn how to do this!
June 29th, 2010 at 9:04 AM
What a wonderful appliqué tutorial. Anyone should be able to follow your instructions and master this technique.
June 29th, 2010 at 9:58 AM
Marie, if she has any questions, tell her to feel free to email me!
Thanks Mom!
January 22nd, 2011 at 8:57 AM
[...] I laid all my pieces out on the placemat until I got an approximate placement for them. I removed everything but the napkin piece, took the paper backing off, and ironed it down onto the right side of the placemat piece. I then appliqued around the edge (for tips on how I applique, visit my applique tutorial). [...]
February 2nd, 2011 at 9:14 AM
This is such an easy tute to follow, thank you! I was wondering if the applique needs backing though, will it not scratch or irritate the skin?
February 2nd, 2011 at 10:02 AM
No, not at all. The only thing on the inside of the shirt is thread, and it’s as soft as the shirt.
February 21st, 2011 at 2:50 PM
[...] Hartman on Sew Mama Sew. It did a good job of going over the basics. I filled in a few blanks with this one from Sew Like my [...]
March 8th, 2011 at 4:45 PM
This is such a great tutorial and I applaud you for posting it! Being a mom of an 18month old and a newborn anyday now, I’ve been looking for a way to recycle my older daughter’s clothes for her baby sister and this tutorial helps in so many ways! First as a beginning sewer and secondly as a mom who like to make things herself! Thanks so much for posting!
March 23rd, 2011 at 10:36 PM
Did you use cotton or knit for the letters? Thanks–Alyssa
April 20th, 2011 at 2:39 AM
thanks for posting this.
May 13th, 2011 at 10:58 PM
Is this how all appliques with mulitiple fabric colors/patterns are made? This seems very time consuming and like it has many extra steps to it. I am trying to figure out how to do appliques with different threads or fabric changes that doesn’t require me cutting each piece out before hand and ironing them down with sticky stuff. Do you know of a tutorial I could use for that or a website that may have a video I can use?
May 21st, 2011 at 4:47 PM
[...] I got started with the stitching. I got a tip from Sew Like My Mom that I didn’t follow last time I did applique. This time I thought I would try it. I used [...]
May 30th, 2011 at 11:20 AM
[...] Then sew an applique or other decoration to the bottom. For information on how I do applique, please visit my tutorial. [...]
June 22nd, 2011 at 2:40 AM
Thanks so much for the easy to follow tutorial! I’ve been avoiding applique ever since I started sewing, but I finally dared to – thanks to you
) I hope you don’t mind that I linked your tutorial on my blog.
Btw, I found that I can print backwards with my regular word as well by going into my printer options and checking backwards printing.
June 22nd, 2011 at 1:24 PM
That’s great to know! Thanks for leaving this comment so others can see it and do the same. And I’d love to see your applique projects if you’re up to sharing them with me!
July 6th, 2011 at 12:39 AM
Just wanted to say how helpful this tutorial has been. You are inspiring me to sew for my twins (ten months old- boy & girl)! Your tutorial has been so simple and it was so generous of you to share. Thanks so much! I’ll send you some of my projects as I get going.
July 21st, 2011 at 7:34 PM
This post inspired me to applique my daughter’s name on her nap mat and it came out cute.
A challenge: CURVES!!!!!! My curves look terrible!!!! Yours look PERFECT!! Of course it was my first try and you’ve done this a million times but can you give some additional tips on getting through the curves? Thanks for this tutorial!
July 25th, 2011 at 11:54 AM
Nice! My niece is going off to college and wants me to dress up a plain duvet cover with applique. I am worried about living up to her expectations! Your tutorial gave me the confidence I need to get started on this project. I’ve done minimum applique in the past….Thanks again!
August 1st, 2011 at 9:49 PM
this is great! thank you
I’m making a quilt and want to applique a heart on it.. now I finally know how to do that!
August 9th, 2011 at 11:59 PM
What is the purpose of the fusible web if you remove it before sewing? Would a fabric cutting machine be able to accomplish the same thing? This confused me.
August 10th, 2011 at 12:08 AM
Never mind, I think I got it. Now I feel silly.
August 10th, 2011 at 3:04 PM
[...] not an “M.”) If you’d like to learn more about how to applique, I found this tutorial really helpful. It was actually pretty simple and fun to make these shirts for our good friends the [...]
August 11th, 2011 at 10:38 AM
Don’t feel silly, we all have to learn somewhere! The fusible web is fusible on both sides, but since you need to apply it, one side is covered with paper. So when you remove the paper you expose the other fusible side. A cutting machine could work for you, though some have trouble with the machines “eating” their fabric as it cuts. I prefer the old-fashioned way that saves my fabric! Hope that helps!
August 12th, 2011 at 4:37 PM
Leer el mundo blog, bastante bueno
August 21st, 2011 at 8:27 AM
Just a quick note to let you know that a link to one of your tutorials was included in my blog.
Go to http://www.ThePlayDateBlog.blogspot.com
Go to SkillsLog
See link under Applique under A
Warmest Regards
Jeanette
October 28th, 2011 at 8:02 AM
[...] more information, see my applique tutorial, and the one on appliqueing [...]
November 9th, 2011 at 1:55 AM
Great tutorial! I want to give applique another whirl now.
And may I say, thank you for actually spelling it “voila” instead of “wah-lah!” I can’t believe some women actually do that…
November 19th, 2011 at 9:37 AM
How do you keep the material from raveling? Is that what the wonder under does?
November 29th, 2011 at 12:49 AM
[...] first tutorial on [...]
December 5th, 2011 at 11:15 PM
[...] applique around the letter. If you need more help on this, see my applique tutorial and the tutorial on appliqueing [...]
December 30th, 2011 at 12:40 AM
Thank you THANK YOU for taking the time to make this tutorial. I used it for a “birthday shirt” for my daughter last year, and again to make my son two appliques on a reversible superhero cape for Christmas. I can’t tell you how helpful the pictures and detailed instructions are… including your tutorial on how to do the curves. This tutorial was great for a beginner like me (first project on my first sewing machine)… thanks again!
January 6th, 2012 at 8:50 PM
This is beautiful work, but we have been cautioned for years not to put children’s names in view on their clothes because someone who is up to no good can more easily fool the child into believing they are a friend.
January 20th, 2012 at 8:35 AM
Where did you get the giraffe pattern? so cute
January 22nd, 2012 at 8:32 AM
I just wanted to say Thank you so much for sharing your work, it is awsome!! Very nice of you to take your time to post and share all of this!! many blessings to you!! Tonya
January 25th, 2012 at 9:52 AM
[...] tips and information see my Applique and Applique Curves [...]
February 1st, 2012 at 12:57 PM
I have a question about applique. What type of fabric do you use for the applique part? I made my first applique project for my son and used felt. I got to thinking though, if I used cotton or any other not-felt fabric, won’t the edges frey? How do you avoid that?
Thanks so much for your great site! I’m a new subscriber!
February 2nd, 2012 at 12:17 AM
[...] even decided to try to appliqueing on them. I followed the tutorial I found on Sew Like My Mom. There were a few things that I didn’t quite understand, but thankfully Sundi from Life of a [...]
February 2nd, 2012 at 11:28 PM
Another wonderful tutorial. My first applique experience was a bit messy. Going to try again with your tips
February 4th, 2012 at 6:03 PM
I use cotton for all my appliques. It does not fray when washed.
February 6th, 2012 at 1:37 PM
[...] found it on.) I drew the hearts for the appliques free hand and basically followed this tutorial (http://sewlikemymom.com/applique-tutorial/). However instead of the zigzag stitch I used a straight stitch since the edges of the jersey [...]
February 12th, 2012 at 12:04 PM
[...] make mama a shirt too! I decided to try an applique shirt for myself, following Melissa’s tutorial. If you’re going to attempt applique, I suggest reading through the tutorial. Melissa [...]
February 19th, 2012 at 5:36 PM
We saw a family at Disney World over Thanksgiving 2011 with these shirts. I loved the shirts and made a comment to the mother as to where she got them and she stated that she made them. Was this by chance you? If so, what a small world. If not, someone followed your tutorial very well.
February 20th, 2012 at 2:24 PM
It wasn’t me, haven’t been to Disney in 24 years!
But that’s really awesome! Thanks for sharing!